Art Technical Q&A: Using Masking Fluid on Painted Areas of a Watercolor

I work with multiple glazes and strive for deep, intense color in my botanical watercolor paintings. I’d like to work more freely on the backgrounds. Can I use masking fluid over the already painted areas? Will removing the masking take some of the paint with it, thereby reducing the intensity of the colors?

If masking fluid is left on paper too long it can be difficult to remove, especially from softer papers. The product package usually has recommendations for the length of time to allow masking fluid to remain on an area. Applied with an inexpensive brush, opaque latex masking fluid is available in thin, thick, and even a few tinted varieties. Some of the tinted fluids tend to leave an oily stain on the paper when they are removed. Masking fluid is easily removed by rubbing over it with your finger or with a clean eraser. Try it out in advance on a separate sheet of paper to get a feeling for just how long it can remain on the paper and still lift off cleanly. Be sure to clean the brush after every use by rubbing it on soap down to the heel (the part of the brush near the hollow of the handle that is hard to clean) to avoid a buildup of hardened masking fluid. You can also use masking tape, paraffin wax, or sheets of translucent paper to protect the white of the paper or a color that is already laid down.